Lapped Zippers

Following right along then, let's tackle a lapped zipper.
 
 

Fig. 1

This is the type of application you are most likely to see in a side skirt. The same principles can be seen in fly closures of some garments.

 

So once again check the width of the zipper and make any adjustments to your seam allowances. Fig. 1

Fig. 2

You will machine baste the seam closed and press the seam open.

Switch to a zipper foot and adjust it so the needle will be stitching between the foot and the teeth of the zipper.

Open the zipper.

Lay the zipper face down onto the seam allowance only and attach regular machine stitching. Machine stitch down the middle of the tape width. This first step is usually done on the back garment seam allowance. Fig. 2

 

Fig. 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now turn the zipper face-up. Make a narrow fold in the seam allowance and finger press. Adjust the zipper foot to the other side so you can stitch the length of the zipper next to this new fold.  You are still stitching through the seam allowance and zipper tape only.  Fig. 3

Fig. 4

 

 

Spread the garment out flat with the zipper face down on the front seam allowance. A small pleat will from at the bottom of the zipper placket. To be sure you are stitching straight, draw a line ¼” from the zipper teeth on the tape to keep your stitching straight and evenly spaced from the zipper teeth. Fig. 4

Fig. 5

 

 

 

 

 

Stitch across the bottom of the zipper and up the other side.

 

 

Check the stitching from the right side. If all is well, take the threads at the bottom of the zipper placket to the wrong side and tie off. Fig. 5

Use a press cloth and steam to press from the right side.

Fig. 6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the basting thread that is holding the placket closed. Fig. 6

Finish the seam allowances, incorporating the zipper tapes.

 

Hope you are seeing how easy these types of zipper applications can be.

 

Till next time then......

 

 

 

 

How many zippers....

Zippers:

Do you ever shrink from a pattern because it requires the insertion of a zipper? I confess I have but really, they are not hard to do if you just take a bit of care and don’t hurry! Better to do the job right than have to pick out and do over….

So what type of zipper application does your garment require? I can think of several possibilities. There’s the centered inset, the lapped, the invisible, the hand applied – for an amazing designer look, the separating zipper and now designers have added the exposed zipper. Wow bet you didn’t realize there were so many.

 

Fig. 1

The Centred Zipper Application

Let’s take a look at the centred inset style. It is what you are most likely to see in the back of a dress or skirt. It isn’t really difficult but this is the kind I’ve always had trouble doing a good job.

Be sure you have the right length according to the pattern. Measure the width of the zipper from the edge of the tape to the other edge. Your seam allowance needs to open to that measure if not a bit wider. Make any adjustments to your garment.

Stitch the seam closed but use a basting stitch for the length of the zipper. Press the seam closed and then open.

 

Open the zipper and lay it face sown on the seam allowance only with the teeth snugged up to the seam line.

Switch to your zipper foot and adjust it so you are stitching on the left side of the foot – the needle is going into the fabric between the foot and the zipper teeth. Stitch the length of the zipper tape. Fig. 1

Fig. 2

 

 

Next, be sure that the zipper pull is turned up as if you were about to close it. Reverse the position of the zipper foot and start past the zipper pull to stitch through the tape and the other seam allowance only. Position the teeth of the second side up against the seam again. Stitch to the top of the zipper. Fig. 2 

Close the zipper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Turn the garment over so you are working on the right side.    

Fig. 3                                                

Now you can take advantage of a fading marker and draw a line on either side of the seam ¼” away from the seam. No matter how straight you think you can stitch, this little step will make your work neater! You will also want to mark the end of the zipper so you stitch across the zipper tape not into the metal end. You can stitch through the nylon teeth if you need to but in most cases you will end the placket just a couple of stitches below that metal stopper.

 

If the fabric is slippery or stretchy you might want to pin the two sides so they stay the same size or do not stretch.

 

Fig. 4

Begin at the top of one side and stitch to the bottom. With the needle in the fabric, lift the foot, pivot and walk your foot across to the seam. Count the number of stitches it takes to get to the seam and stitch the same number on the other side. You should be on the line you drew. Leave the needle in the fabric again to pivot and then stitch to the top of the zipper.

If it is a difficult fabric, you may wish to stitch both sides from the top down or use a narrow piece of thin iron-on interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric to stabilize the seam.

Carefully remove the basting stitches that hold the seam closed. Wait for the facing marker to disappear before pressing. Your zipper should be perfect!  Fig. 4

I have not mentioned a seam finish for the seam allowances. You can serge or overcast the raw edges after inserting the zipper, incorporating the zipper tape into the finish.

 

Soon to follow, next installment - Lapped Zippers

 

 

There and back again

Last weekend the Marquis family gathered in Edmundston, New Brunswick for my other-in-law's 90th birthday party. It was a whirlwind visit to say the least!

Our son picked me up on Thursday evening and we drove through freezing rain to Ottawa arriving near midnight. We stayed at our daughter's overnight and then hitched a ride with her and her husband for the next leg of the journey. I woke around 3 a.m. on Friday to the sound of freezing rain. It had finally caught up with us.

We were back on the road again at 7 and when we stopped for gas and coffee just outside Quebec City, the rain had all but stopped. A lady stopped in the doorway of 'Tim's' in shock to ask us from where we had driven. When we turned to see what had caught her attention we saw that the front of the vehicle was so thick with ice that the licence plate was no longer visible! We cleared what we could of the ice from the headlights, the front of the car and the roof rack and with coffee in had struck out for the rest of the journey. I just wish I could have reached my camera to capture that poor car.

The next leg of the journey, to Rivière-du-Loup, was uneventful. But once we turned south towards Edmundston it began to snow again and there was construction nearly all the way. The Trans Canada is being widen and improved. We arrived at the hotel at about 4:30 p.m., 5:30 their time. What a long day!!

We had dinner 7 minutes down the highway at the neatest privately owned restaurant in St. Jacques, Le Patrimoine. They only serve wood-fired pizzas and oh may, what a selection. Most desserts featured local maple syrup as well. Everything was so delicious. And outside, it continued to snow....

And outside it snowed......

                                                                                                                                                              We stayed in a brand new Best Western which was just off the TransCanada Highway in Edmundston. It was very nice and had one of the best stocked complimentary breakfast rooms I've ever seen. There was a small pool with a big spiral water slide for the kids, a whirlpool/hot tub and an exercise room with modern machines that really worked! I was impressed. The other thing that impressed me was that there was no carpeting so if you suffered from allergies you could be sure that there were no dust bunnies lurking under the beds!

The cake and candles!

                                                           
Mrs. Marquis' family and friends gathered for a dinner and then returned to the hotel afterwards for coffee and cake. She was so happy  to have us all there. And it had been years since we had all managed to get together. Birthdays are such happy events for family gatherings.


Next morning the four of us set off for home once again in the snow. It ceased once we passed Lévis, Quebec. We arrived back in the Ottawa area by dinner time where the sun was shining and there was no snow in sight. The remainder of the trip was uneventful. Paul and I were up and on the road again to Newmarket by 8 a.m. Monday morning.

Sunday morning snow......

The sun was shining and it was lovely and warm when we arrived in Newmarket just after noon. Paul had another hour and a half drive to reach his home. Bob stayed on with his mom for a few more days to ease the letdown after all the excitement.




So these wonderful photos were waiting for me  when I got back to business. My good buddy has made a jumper of printed pinwale corduroy for her little granddaughter who lives in Australia.



She always does such neat things with buttons and this jumper from my new Infant Snowdrift pattern is no exception. She also used a fine coordinating mini gingham for the armhole binding and the mini piping. You can just see them in the second photo. I surely hope she gets a photo of this sweet little gal wearing her jumper and sends it on!

You can find this adorable pattern on my web site, www.amberlane.ca . Go to the Atelier and then to Children's Patterns. If you click on pattern cover you will see some photos of garments made from the pattern.

If you go to Pleater Companions you will see that we have new pricing on the ComPleater Boxes and a new product, Pleater Rods. Read all about them; I think these rods are brilliant. We think these items will make your pleating life easier.

While you are visiting the web site check out the Other Designers. I carry A Garden of Smocking Designs, Emma's Gown and Grace L. Knott patterns, books and dots.

So until next time, keep stitching!

An antique silk gown and a photo shoot

Last week I met with Carla Canonico at A Needle Pulling Thread magazine for a photo shoot. This wonderful needlework magazine is produced right here in little old Newmarket!            

We were photographing the Christmas decorations for the Festive issue, well John, the Art Director and so much more, did the actual photography but Carla and I set up each shot. I of course never thought to bring my own camera to record any of the process...

Yes, the Festive issue and it is only March! Carla and John work so far ahead to bring you this wonderful magazine. I brought in a set of three silk ribbon embroidered decorations making use of some slightly different stitches along with the tried and true. There is a traditional ball, a Christmas tree and a Drummer Boy's drum.

Then a few weeks ago, inspiration struck again and I did up some felt 'cookie cutter' decorations that employ only two stitches for the designs. These are so easy you could even get your little people stitching if they are comfortable with a needle and thread - well maybe it is more like it to say if you are comfortable. After all needlework, particularly embroidery is a hand skill to be passed on the next generation and what better way to spend precious time with your children or grandchildren.

Please go to A Needle Pulling Thread magazine to check it out. From there
you can catch Carla's Face book page and 'like' her beautiful photos!! You might even sign up for a subscription or check out the "needlework pages" a listing of shops and services that you are bound to find helpful.


This is the cover of the newest issue that has just hit the news stands. Preview it on the web site and look for it next time you are out shopping.








Also last week a parcel arrived in the mail from my best friend in England. She always surprises me with these wonderful packages. Inside the gold tissue tied up in the prettiest ombre ribbon, was the most delicate Christening gown in champagne gossamer-fine silk embroidered in ecru silk or rayon thread. It has been made from an embroidered border which has not been trimmed to the edge of the stitching. There obviously was an embroidered insertion made to match.  

For those of us who use heirloom sewing techniques this gown is an anomaly. It is an antique gown from the Victorian or Edwardian era which has been sewn together by sewing machine - French seams of course. The hemstitching that was used to turn up the hem is absolutely perfect and exquisite.
 
The odd thing to me is the way the designer used the insertion pieces on the bodice and sleeves. Hope you can see this in the photo above. The 'waste fabric' has not been removed nor hidden by turning it to the back. Instead it has been used as an edging with part of it turned inside for application. In the CF, it has been made to look like these edges are pin tucks and a second pin tuck sewn beside each edge.
At the waist in the photo it looks like the 'waste fabric' has been turned to the back but on further examination, there is a huge tuck on the inside - an alteration was made but nothing was cut away so next baby could be accommodated.

 
All the embroidery on all the pieces is also perfect - not a sign of puckering. This is quite a feat considering how fine the fabric is and they wouldn't have had all the stabilizers the modern embroidery machines require. Look closely at how perfectly it has been stitched. I simply marvel!
 
 
 
 

The lace edging on the sleeves looks much like some of the fine lace edgings still available from Capitol Imports. Here is a close-up of the sleeve.
 
The designer even made an attempt to math up the pattern of the embroidery in the centre back the only seam in the skirt. But I imagine she was limited by the amount of fabric there was.
 
We can learn so much by studying antique garments. How did they make use of the different parts employed in the garment, what kind of seams, and their size, allowances for alterations and so on.
 
The design is simple enough for anyone to copy. All you need is a basic yoked pattern. Why not turn you had to creating such a gown for some wee babe!
 
So until next time, keep stitching.....

A gift for you....

Sometimes when we are designing a pattern one element or another doesn’t always work.

I usually file these little nuggets away for future use in some other form or pattern but this time I thought you might enjoy this design graph. It is just too sweet to store away. I hope you will this the same.

Smocked on double layer of Imperial Batiste

Why when this is such a pretty little design? Well if you look carefully at the photo you will see how the yoke bubbles slightly. I did everything you are supposed to do, let out the pleats to match the area of the yoke  to which it was to attach, spread my pleats, smocked more loosely at the bottom than the top. But when the seam was sewn, oh no!, it wouldn’t sit right.

 

Out with the steam iron and spray starch but no matter of work with these two was going to solve my problem. Of course it may have been that the piping in the seam was the problem but I was not going to take a chance and publish a design that wouldn’t work.

If it was the piping, I may have stretched it ever so slightly  so that when it relaxed, it ‘bounced back’ to its original length. Nothing short of new piping (I had trimmed off the end of course) and taking everything apart  to re-stitch it all, would have solved this problem.  I am too fussy and yet at the same time too impatient to re do all that stitching. But you are the winner!

I used iridescent seed beads and the faintest variegated floss for the borders and matching pink floss for the central section. You could make bullion roses in place of the seed beads.

Send me a photo of how you have used this design and I will post it here.

So until next time, keep stitching……

Great news! The patterns I've been working on for what seems forever are finally ready for you.

Yes, the little Infant Tuxedo Jacket which coordinates with the Infant Wardrobe I and the little Infant Snowdrift are now both posted on the web site and on the new order form.

 Here are the covers of both. I think you have seen some of the work I have been doing on the samples in past posts to the blog.

If you go to the web site, you will find a full selection of photos with each pattern in the children's section of the Atelier. It would be wonderful to have photos from you of either of these patterns made up as you interpret them to post in the on-line Gallery.

We have a new Order Form and new pricing on the "ComPleater Boxes".

If you are browsing, check put our new Pleater Rods. Bob has created four categories of rods, all hand made and hand finished in wood with the most silky finish. There is even one specifically for travelling to class or convention! You need to see them with their description to determine which would best suit your needs.

Here are a couple of the finished samples from the Infant Snowdrift pattern.



View A with heirloom touches, button back

View B smocked, button back 



 



The Diaper Cover Panties with monogramed tab



Please take a minute and check out all these new things at www.amberlane.ca

I think you will like what you find.

 

 

So till next time, keep stitching!



Create a Chanel seam finish on your garment!

So yesterday was Valentine’s Day and I received the most beautiful bouquet!  

My dear husband outdid himself this year and we even went out for a very special and delicious dinner. It was rather romantic as we were seated right by the restaurant’s fire place. I felt so lucky and special as the pace was packed! The waitress said we had the best spot in the place!!

 

 

This week between other jobs I tested the new Infant Snowdrift pattern in a very soft 21 wale 100% cotton corduroy. It is from Spechler-Vogel and I picked it up a couple of years ago with another project in mind. At the same time I colour-matched it to a tiny gingham check. So when I needed a different weight of fabric these two came to mind.
 

Corduroy is not at all difficult to work with if you keep the nap in mind but is can be messy with little bits of ’fallout’ appearing everywhere from your clothes to every corner of your sewing room and anywhere else that you take your stitching. (I like to do the hand work in the evening in front of the TV). So when it came to seam finishes I wanted to be as creative but sure of ending this fallout as possible. Since I had the coordinating gingham I decided to employ a ‘Hong Kong’ seam finish.

 

I first came across this finish back in my Ryerson days when we learned that it was one of Coco Chanel’s favourite finishes. The jackets of these loosely woven wool tweed suits were sometimes left unlined but teamed with coordinating silk blouses. From the silk fabric she had the seam allowances finished as described below.  

 



Quilting foot, 1" Bias, #10 foot, Seam to be finished 



Now this technique takes a bit of extra time but is worth the effort when done well. The seam allowances in this pattern are only ⅜” which makes them a bit trickier than the traditional ⅝” seam allowances most of you are used to using. I could have done a bit of practising and done a better job on my first seam but was sure I could stitch strait without! Wrong. Accuracy is paramount when working with such tiny details. So I urge you to do as I say not as I did!!

Doing the math was pretty easy. My seam allowance was ⅜” and when pressed open you would see ¾”. You need bias strips to edge the seam allowances. If I made my finish ¼” wide, it would work perfectly to create a proportion of thirds. So I cut the bias strips of gingham 1” wide – ¼” would show on each edge and ¼” of corduroy would be left showing in the middle. I know this doesn’t add up but you have to take into account the ‘turn of the cloth’ and that you need to stretch the bias so very slightly.

 

 

 

 

 

I used my ¼” quilting foot to apply the bias strips to one seam allowance. Trick here is stretch the bias just a tiny bit.

 

 

 

 

Press the bias away from the seam line. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold it along the edge of the garment fabric to the wrong side. Next step is to machine stitch ‘in the ditch’ of the first row of stitching securing the bias on the back of the seam allowance in place.  For this step I used my Bernina #10 foot to ensure straight, perfect, stitching. Check to see if your machine brand has a foot of this type. That is all there is to it.

 

 

 

 

Do one seam allowance completely at a time. It is important to keep the width even throughout the length of the seam. Careful pressing will be a big help as will having the right feet.

Had I been using plain fabric another thought occurred to me as I was doing the ‘stitch in the ditch’ down the length of the seam. I could have used a simple decorative stitch to coordinate with the main fabric or theme of my garment. Just a thought to bank for another garment and another time.

 So here you see how I used the gingham not only for the seam finish but also to finish the top edge of my hem but the Yoke Facing and Diaper Cover Lining.


Always look for interesting ways to make the inside of you garment as beautiful as the outside. The right side of this little ensemble will be on the web site as soon as we can get everything posted.

Be sure to check it out and order the pattern!!

 

Till next time, keep stitching……