The Exposed ZipperThis newer type of zipper application features a fully exposed with the zipper sitting on top or outside of the garment. It is showing up on all types of garments from suit jackets, to pants to eveningwear. If you watch any of the awards shows this season you are bound to see at least one!
Measure the length of your zipper, cut and apply an interfacing to either side of the seam allowance for support. This time the interfacing could be cut ⅞” wide.
Note the length of the zipper – from the top to the zipper stopper. Machine stitch the garment seam below this measure. Backstitch the start of this seam. Press the seam open making the seam allowances a little wider (¾”) at the top to accommodate the zipper pull. Ease the width of the seam allowance from the stitched seam to the new width at the top edge.
Tack the ends of the zipper tape together with a stitch or two. Measure the length of tape there is below the bottom stopper (e.g. ½”). On the back of the zipper, draw a line at ½ this measure (e.g. ¼”). On the right side of the garment, mark a line below the end of the zipper opening at this distance (¼”). Make it wide enough to be seen either side of the zipper tape when the zipper is laid on the seam.
Lay the zipper face down on the right side of the fabric and upside down – zipper stopper towards the top of the garment. Match up the horizontal lines on the garment and on the zipper. Stitch across the marks, through the zipper tape and the garment. This will anchor the zipper. Be sure to back stitch at the beginning and end of this little row of stitching.
Now flip the zipper up so it is sitting right side up on the right side of the garment. Do this so you have about ¼” of zipper tape below the zipper stopper. Pin in place.
If not finishing the top of the garment with a collar, waistband or facing, turn the remaining zipper tape to the wrong side of the garment. Pin in place. Now hand baste everything so you no longer have to worry about any pins!
Switch to your zipper foot. Position the needle as close as possible to the notch of the zipper foot and the foot will ride along the side of the zipper teeth. This will give you even straight stitching. Begin with the zipper open. Back stitch at the top of the zipper; carry on down one side, pausing about half way down the zipper to close it.
End at the bottom of the zipper and repeat the process for the second side. You will need to reposition the zipper foot or the needle for this second side.
From the wrong side, this sample is not perfect but you get the idea. I didn't pin before stitching so you can see that it does pay off to take that extra step.
To complete the application you will stitch around the zipper at the very outside edge, across the bottom and up the other side. This will make the zipper placement secure.
To jazz things up you could do a row of decorative stitching on either side of the zipper on the tape.
Finish the top edge of the garment according to your pattern.
So give this new fashion application a try, you will be surprised how fast and easy it is and you will be right in style!!
Till next time, keep stitching......