Monday, June 24, 2013

Lapped Zippers

Following right along then, let's tackle a lapped zipper.
Fig. 1
This is the type of application you are most likely to see in a side skirt. The same principles can be seen in fly closures of some garments.

So once again check the width of the zipper and make any adjustments to your seam allowances. Fig. 1

Fig. 2
You will machine baste the seam closed and press the seam open.

Switch to a zipper foot and adjust it so the needle will be stitching between the foot and the teeth of the zipper.

Open the zipper.

Lay the zipper face down onto the seam allowance only and attach regular machine stitching. Machine stitch down the middle of the tape width. This first step is usually done on the back garment seam allowance. Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Now turn the zipper face-up. Make a narrow fold in the seam allowance and finger press. Adjust the zipper foot to the other side so you can stitch the length of the zipper next to this new fold.  You are still stitching through the seam allowance and zipper tape only.  Fig. 3
Fig. 4

Spread the garment out flat with the zipper face down on the front seam allowance. A small pleat will from at the bottom of the zipper placket. To be sure you are stitching straight, draw a line ¼” from the zipper teeth on the tape to keep your stitching straight and evenly spaced from the zipper teeth. Fig. 4
Fig. 5

Stitch across the bottom of the zipper and up the other side.
Check the stitching from the right side. If all is well, take the threads at the bottom of the zipper placket to the wrong side and tie off. Fig. 5
Use a press cloth and steam to press from the right side.
Fig. 6
Remove the basting thread that is holding the placket closed. Fig. 6
Finish the seam allowances, incorporating the zipper tapes.
Hope you are seeing how easy these types of zipper applications can be.
Till next time then......


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